Venice

The Grand Canal

The Doge's Bascilica

The Doge's Bascilica and Palace

The Doge's Palace

The San Marco Clock

The Winged Lion - Symbol of Venice

Thanks for the Sparking Wine Ferdi!

Day 5
Uniquely Venice

On to Venice - Venetiza! I can't wait - so excited!!
After a morning of travel, we left our bus along the waterfront and boarded a private water taxi, luggage and all. We bounced along, soon entering into the Grand Canal! Colorful buildings climbing up out of the water on each side of us - WOW it is everything I imagined and so much more.

We were dropped off at one of the islands where it was a short walk to the front door of our hotel, Don Orione. This hotel is rather interesting. It's a converted monastery. It's clean, quiet, and modern. My room reminded me of my dorm in university.

As would become the norm, we settled in and then met Ferdi in the lobby for an orientation walk of the town. These are so great. You get a sense of where your hotel is and where all the attractions are. After these little intros I feel confident to explore on my own.

Ferdi took us around Venice explaining some of the mysteries of this place that seems to have so many. We wound our way through the little streets (no cars remember), over little bridges and past shop after shop. The buildings are what Brenna and I came to call shabby chic. They are elegant, but most are in need of a little extra care. It all just adds to the charm of this truly unique place.

We came around a corner and were going through an arcade when suddenly I saw the dusk light on the San Marco Basilica, its flags flying, and I said "wow" quietly to myself. The next thing I noticed was that the two buildings on either side of the basilica are mirror images of one another in black and white tones - such a contrast to the multi colors and gold of the Basilica. Tables from restaurants encroaching onto the square and a quartet setting up for this evening. Winged lions, the symbol of Venice, are everywhere.

After exploring more of the surrounding area we made our way to dinner. Venice has a reputation of not having the best food. But of course Ferdi knew where all the good restaurants were. We arrived at Trattoria Agli Artisti to find one long table with food already waiting for us. Plates of sliced tomatoes, mozzarella drizzled with olive oil and basil. How did they know we had worked up an appetite?

Now I must tell you that when I say mozzarella it isn't the solid block that we get at the stores in North America. No, this is buffalo mozzarella, it is soft, milky white and has a far superior taste than our North American kind.

The secondo piatto was spaghetti all mare. Spaghetti with fresh seafood! Then berries on gelato to finish.

Ferdi had arranged a special Venetian experience for us - a night gondola ride. Six black gondolas were waiting for us. We glided down the small canals with the full moon overhead. In the last gondola there was an accordion, a harmonica, and a singer, singing in Italian. Yet, even with the music it was so quiet. Just the water rushing past, the oar skimming the water, and the music seeming to float by; this is how Venice was meant to be seen. There were entrances to hotels and restaurants; just doors open onto the water, lights on and welcoming - it was so exotic. We cruised along and found ourselves in the Grand Canal, which was lit beautifully with lights from all the buildings. Soon all our gondolas were grouped together and we were all singing a Dean Martin song at the top of our lungs in Italian (don't ask me how)?! Wow, what a memory.

Randi and Laura

Floating Down the Grand Canal, Singing at the Top of Our Lungs!

But that wasn't the last of our evening enchantment. No, Ferdi said he had one more thing for us back at San Marco Square. The Square is lit up with lights and music at night. The best thing is there are no pigeons!!! Plus only half the tourists that were here in the day time.

Before we went into one of the cafes Ferdi said he was treating us to some local sparkling wine, but "You have to stand and drink, I can't afford for you to sit down!" The prices for things at these cafes depend on where you sit. An item would be most expensive outside, a little less inside, and the cheapest if you don't sit down. This is important to know and isn't just limited to Venice. If you aren't sure, ask!

What a lovely way to cap off the night with sparkling wine and classical music drifting in from the players outside. What a wonderfully enchanted evening in the city of Venice.

Ferdi by the Gondola Shop

Murano Glass Factory

Venice is Enchanting
Even in the Rain

This Place has the
Best Fragolina Wine

Day 6
Finding and Losing My Way in Venice

Our second day in Venice began with a walk through the back streets with a local guide. She told us of the history of Venice and how it was built. We saw one of the only two remaining gondola shops were they are made. The gondolas are expensive and built specifically for the gondolier. We ended the walk with a tour through the Basilica. So amazing that this was all for one man, the ruler of Venice, the Doge.

The group then headed for our appointment at the Murano Glass Factory. We had an amazing demonstration of an artist changing a glowing molten piece of glass into an elegant horse in mere minutes! Then on to a show room of their pieces for sale. After much consideration, I finally decided on a lovely little wine glass in the rose/purple color they created here. This color can be seen in all the street lamps of Venice.

We had the afternoon to ourselves and we all went off in our own directions to explore. I decided to explore the other side of the Rialto bridge. Well, did I get lost! Oh you might think you have a good sense of direction, but not here. You can't just go straight anywhere. There will most likely be a building or canal in your path. So be sure to pack a map with you. When you get to a compo (little square) figure out where you are! Don't assume you're going in the right direction. I sure wasn't!

I was finally back on track and keeping my eye open for an art supply store. I was just leaving a store when it started to pour rain!! I jumped back into the little shop and decided to give it a good look through. It was a stationery store. I noticed an artist's watercolor pad! Eureka! An art shop! It turned out most of the supplies were in the back and the clerk brought them out to you. Well, I knew a little Italian but no art vocabulary. With a lot of drawing in the air, I was able to find everything I was looking for. Luckily the clerk seemed to be having as much fun figuring out what I was signing or acting out as I was doing it!

Luckily I had packed my wonderful travel umbrella, so I was able to complete my journey despite the weather. To continue with the art theme of the afternoon, I was thrilled to go to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art. Having a Fine Arts degree, I've had years of art history and I was so excited to actually get to see some of these pieces I'd only read about and seen in books.

To sum up the experience there was a whole room of Jackson Pollock's work. There were five of his pieces. Most museums are lucky to just have one, if that! But you could actually see the progression of his work through these five pieces. You could clearly see the influence of De Kooning, whose works were just a room away, wow! But then to see the final master work right there; so thick with paint and string that it was hard to image all that went in to creating such a great masterpiece. It's so much more inspiring in person.

Tonight we had dinner on our own. Although most of us ended up in the same place of Ferdi's recommendation. Anita, Don, Ferdi, and I were sharing a table. Ferdi asked what I was going to have and I replied proudly in Italian. Ferdi just burst out laughing! And asked, "Do you know what you just said."
I replied, "No, I know what I was trying to say."
Ferdi: "What?"
Me: "Spaghetti with clams"
Ferdi: "You said spaghetti with up yours!"
Well then we were all bent over laughing.

So I practiced and practiced how to say it right for the waiter. He finally came over and I gave him my order in perfect Italian, and without insulting him! But then Ferdi said to the guy "Yeah, but do you know what she said before?" and he went and told on me! The waiter burst out laughing too.

The rain had stopped after dinner and Anita, Don and I tagged along with Ferdi to one of his favorite bars, Antica Ostaria - Ruga Rialto. Cecilia and Brenna joined us shortly after. It served the best fragolina (strawberry) wine anywhere. This strawberry wine isn't like the super sweet stuff they sell in North America. It's made by a local farmer and the bottle doesn't even have a label. This wine is lovely! It has a nice rich golden color with a hint of amber. The smell is divine and the lovely taste has just a touch of sweetness to it. It gave us all a little warmth on this chilly Venice night.